I AWAKE to peaceful silence, as snow falls all around outside my cosy room.
Pulling back the curtains, I am greeted by snow-covered church domes and white roofs set against a frosty sky.
This is Vilnius, Lithuania’s capital city and a real winter wonderland.
Handily, it’s also one of the most affordable Christmas market destinations in Europe, with flights from as little as £15 and mugs of mulled wine for less than £3.50.
While it has a population of 540,000, it’s safe to say they aren’t early risers — and it’s well past noon when I finally feel like I’m no longer wandering through a ghost town.
But the transformation is remarkable.
Within a few hours I’m in a bustling Baltic city that boasts a rich history and is home to more than fifty churches, as well underground spas, multiple museums and an arts quarter.
Netflix’s mega hit Stranger Things was filmed across the city, including at the recently closed 100-year-old prison.
But it’s the postcard-worthy Christmas markets that have brought me here.
City Hall Square hosts its own afternoon market in front of the tinsel-adorned grand building.
It’s packed with stalls from a series of nearby countries, including Georgia, Ukraine and Germany.
Cathedral Square is home to the city’s main Christmas market, featuring a dazzling tree and ice rink.
I was lucky enough to visit on a Saturday night when fire performers come out in abundance and put on street shows for passers-by.
It’s only a short walk between City Hall and Cathedral Square, but for about £1.80 you can grab a miniature train which runs from noon until 9pm connecting both markets.
When you have had enough of strolling the stalls, make sure to visit the beautiful Jewish quarter in the Old Town district.
Established by King Wladyslaw IV in 1633, it consists of winding streets that remind me of Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter films — each magically decorated shop or restaurant window is almost competing with its neighbour for the most festive display.
Real-life Whoville
Although, it’s safe to say that cafe and bakery Poniu Laime, next to the 5H Stikliai Hotel and frequented by the likes of Kylie Minogue and Sir Rod Stewart, takes the crown.
The humble corner store goes all out with a display that is the closest to a real-life Whoville (from Dr Seuss) I have ever seen.
Unashamedly, I quietly waited in line behind other keen snappers to capture my Instagram-worthy moment, which was quickly lapped up by my friends back home.
If you are looking for a classic, cosy winter pub then Amatininkų Uzeiga serves up traditional meals and mulled wine at £4 a mug.
Or for local delicacies head to Lokys, the oldest family-run restaurant in the city, which serves bright pink cold beetroot soup and potatoes, as well as beaver stew.
Despite having a full tummy, it is impossible to wander the cobbled streets and not nip into one of the many independent coffee shops (there isn’t a Starbucks or Caffe Nero in sight) and bakeries lining them.
If you are fancy a change from the norm, a paw-fect break from the cold comes in the form of the Cat Cafe on Gedimino Street with 15 lovable moggies.
As I was travelling solo I was able to pop in for a hot chocolate, but booking for larger groups or meals is recommended as it can get busy.
If Vilnius hasn’t quite filled your Christmas bucket list, then the city of Kaunas is just a 90-minute drive away.
The streets there are lined with miniature Christmas trees and the main square boasts another giant decorated tree — this time surrounded by pop-up dome shops packed with sweet treats and the chance to meet the big man himself.
It doesn’t get more festive than that.
GO: Vilnius
GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies from Stansted to Vilnius from £14.99 each way.
See ryanair.com.
STAYING THERE: The Artagonist Hotel in the Old Town has rooms from around £70 per night.
See artagonist.lt.
For more information on Lithuania, see lithuania.travel.